Saturday, March 10, 2012

Day 20 – By the Time We Get to Phoenix


Our building
Started the day with an early morning walk…saying goodbye to all our friends: the geese, the coots, the rabbits, the doves and Zipper.  It’s been great visiting, but it’s time to move on. 

Border Patrol
Just as we got out of the valley we started seeing signs that the border patrol was inspecting cars ahead.  This is the fourth time on our trip that we’ve been stopped by the border patrol.  We stop as instructed and three scary looking dudes come to inspect our car.  One leans in and asks us questions, “Where are you from?  Are you US citizens?”  The second guy walks around the car with a dog…damn, hope he doesn’t trigger off our coffee!  The third agent just stands there and looks at us.  He’s heavily armed and wearing body armor.  He looks just like we’d expect Ranger to look like: Bad Ass!

We pass inspection and east we go.  Amazing how the saguaros start immediately after you cross the Colorado River.  Same desert, you cross one river and bam, saguaros!  We cross into Arizona and see a McD’s sign.  Bob has been reviewing fish sandwiches and he’s got us primed for a Filet-o-Fish.  Yum!

We arrive in Phoenix and reunite with M&A at our hotel on Central Avenue.  We check in and head to the Heard Museum a few blocks away.  They have a special exhibit on Geronimo that all four of us want to see.  The exhibit takes away the myths of Geronimo and tells the real story of him and his fellow chiefs of the period.  Once again we are reminded of how horribly the U.S. has treated Indians throughout history.

Now that's a bloom!
Heard Museum has many exhibits about the Indians of the Southwest.  It’s fascinating to learn how they prospered in the desert and the mountains of Arizona.  Their pottery, weaving and basket making are all works of art and utility. 

Rattlesnake for dinner!
Yep, we're still us.
After Heard, we head to Rustler’s Rooste.  Monte had visited this restaurant “a hundred years ago” and he highly recommended it.  On the way there we watch planes seemingly land on the interstate.  Very cool and Mona snaps pic after pic.

We are greeted at the restaurant by a huge long horn steer.  Huge!  We walk into the restaurant and are immediately assailed by the smell of beef…beef being cooked over coals...Yum!  We start our meal with rattlesnake.  Wow…good stuff!  Much more fun to eat them than to encounter them on the trails!  Next, we get our meals….great food!  Love the sides of corn on the cob and cowboy beans!  We ended up with bread pudding.  O.M.G!

We stroll through the building grounds.  Wonderful views of Phoenix twinkling below us and Venus and Jupiter above us.  Loving the Valley of the Sun!

Friday, March 9, 2012

Day 19 – Critters

Beautiful, warm morning, perfect for roadrunner hunting!  Started out early, again searching where Aleta had last seen the elusive Geococcyx californianus cantfindusnowhereicus.  Walked around the entire resort, no luck.  However, did see hummingbirds, Canadian geese, Mallards, Hooded Mergansers, rabbits (lots of rabbits), egrets, hawks, swallows, shrikes, sparrows, But. No. Roadrunners!
Roadrunner Nest & Egg

Finally, my luck turned!  I found a rare roadrunner nest with an egg in it!!!  Unbelievable, who would ever have thought?!?!  I carefully hid a few feet away and watched for mama roadrunner to come back.  Ten minutes passed…no mama. Twenty minutes passed…no mama.  Forty minutes…no mama.  Finally, I reluctantly walked away and I as I got about 20 feet away I swear I heard a faint “beep beep”.


You realize of course, that I’m not the only one taken by these birds.  Of course, they were immortalized in the Looney Toons Cartoons.  Everyone remembers those heart-tugging lyrics of the theme song,

If you're on the highway and Road Runner goes beep beep.
Just step aside or might end up in a heap.
Road Runner, Road Runner runs on the road all day.
Even the coyote can't make him change his ways.

Road Runner, the coyote's after you.
Road Runner, if he catches you you're through.
Road Runner, the coyote's after you.
Road Runner, if he catches you you're through.

That coyote is really a crazy clown,
When will he learn he can never mow him down?
Poor little Road Runner never bothers anyone,
Just runnin' down the road's his idea of having fun!


Here's a link in case you've forgotten: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwYQsZuh2CM
But did you realize that Neil Diamond’s song “Solitary Man” war originally titled “Solitary Bird” because of his deep affection for the roadrunner?  He too, grew up with Looney Tunes and was forever mesmerized by the beep beep of the roadrunner.  Speaking of “beep beep”, Donna Summer’s lyrics of  “Toot toot, hey, beep beep!” forever immortalized the life of street roadrunners gone bad.  Yes, I  am not alone in my love of these creatures.

Pinterest Breakfast!
Ancient Petroglyph
Ancient Indians also reverved the roadrunner.  Witness to that is their ancient petrogylphs etched in sheets of corten steel.  You can see these scatter throughout the resort and each one takes your breath away and you think of the effort the Cahwilla put into these masterpieces of art.

But, it’s not to be…no roadrunners today.  I trudge back to the villa and better times ensue!  We cook breakfast, scrambled egg pinwheel via April’s Pinterest posted recipe and we’re ready for the day! 

We head out to hike in 1000 Palms Canyon, an oasis on the San Andreas Fault.  We get our briefing at the visitor center.  A coyote, a bobcat, a great horned owl, and Gambel’s quail have been sited.  Even a zebra lizard or two is on the list.  We’re pumped!  (Note: Did you know that today is a big solar flare day?  That's what's happened to Mona's hair...it's solar flare hair!)
We’ve been here at 1000 Palms Canyon lots of times before and usually we’re the only ones.  This time the parking lot is full and there is a school bus there as well.  We like to be as silent as possible so we can sneak up on the critters.  (Be vewy vewy qwiet!)  But, it’s not to be today…we’re constantly encountering people who are laughing, talking and making all kinds of noise….not to mention groups of 20 first graders who are generating 150 decibels of energy even while whispering.  But, it doesn’t matter, we’re still enjoying the canyon….lots of California Fan Palms towering over us, then out into the desert where we see lots of little lizards.  No iguanas, no rattlesnakes, no zebra lizards, but we still really enjoy our visit.
Wiki quail photo
No rattlesnake this time.  Whew!
On the way out we see something dart across our path…it’s a Gambel’s quail.  These little guys have a topknot that hangs over their eyes.  There are four of them and we play hide and seek for several minutes. 

Desert turtle home
Now it’s time for geocaching.  We do some city caches, then head back out to the desert.  Caching in the desert is fun, but you have to be prepared…water, good shoes, caution, and a big stick to prod the cache area before putting your hand there.  We’re set and off we go.  Found a few and then headed for a cache named “Log Only”.  We get close to the cache and this strange creature bounded out in front of us.  Huge back legs and l-o-n-g ears…it bounces across the desert in front of us.  We’re too stunned to even reach for a camera…we’ve just seen our first jack rabbit and we’re so excited we’re laughing out loud.  Love the experiences we get from geocaching!

Back to the villa.  Decided to drive around the resort a bit before heading in.  What’s that?!?!?!  Right there!!!???  It might be, it could be, IT IS!!!  A roadrunner!!!  We stop the car and start taking pics.  Here, use this camera…now, use this camera.  Get closer!  Don’t spook him!  Mr. Roadrunner took it all in stride.  He’s been hounded by the paparazzi before and he maintains his grace and stride.  He knows the poses we want and he struts in style.  Our visit to Palm Desert is now complete.
Zipper is still on duty!

Wow, can the day get any better?  Yes, it can!  I (Marvin) saw a Vermont plate.  We’re down to four states still outstanding: New Hampshire, Delaware, Rhode Island and West Virginia.  Since last status update we’ve also seen Baja California and Saskatchewan  .   Monte saw Nova Scotia, but we can’t add it to the “spotted list” since neither of us saw it.  The game goes on!

We relax with a few drinks, shrimp, salad and brie.  Waiting on that full moon again! We finally get the moon and Mars, too...it's so bright and Orion is on guard above.  Gotta love desert nights!

Thursday, March 8, 2012

Day 18 - Geococcyx Californianus

There was sand just inside our doors where last night’s wind storm had penetrated the seals around the door with extra fine sand.  Those winds were strong!
Not a roadrunner

Morning waterings of the courses
Aleta came back from her morning walk and reported that she had seen a road runner near the back of the resort.  Road Runner!  I grabbed my Acme camera and headed out the door.  I walked to the back of the resort and scouted around all points.  No road runner…apparently he had been notified of my intent.  However, I did see a praire falcon and a hummingbird visiting a wren, so not a total loss. 

A little about our villa…  We’re on the third floor, with our balconies facing the east.  Perfect for watching sunrises and for hiding from the late night high winds that channel through the pass virtually every night.  We have a full kitchen and a laundry room.  The great room adjoins the kitchen and has a dining room with seating for six.  The couch and chairs face the gas fireplace and we have a large picture window facing east.  We have two balconies, each with patio furniture. Finally, two bedrooms with king size beds and the guest bedroom also has a kitchenette.  Nothing like roughing it in the desert!

We bought this and our Desert Springs timeshares in preparation for our retirement.  Little did we know that we would be retiring this early and getting to enjoy them like this already!

We headed east again, this time to Fantasy Springs Casino to make our reparation payments to the Cabazon Tribe.  Then on to Old Town La Quinta to have lunch at Stuftz...a pizza place recommended to us by the bartender at Mortons.  One thing we haven't found in the valley is good pizza.  In the old days, we flew out of Chicago and always got our pizza fix at Giordano's before and after the trip.  Now that we're driving it's almost vital that we find a good pizza joint here.  Find it, we did!  This place has a deep dish with veggies piled high and a crust reminiscint of PWs.  Yum!
Roadrunners like pools,
But not today!
We head back to the resort…nice cool day to relax and enjoy the place….and maybe find a roadrunner or two! 

More walking, no roadrunners.  Dern!  What is it that makes me, Marvinoneryus Wanafindabirdicus, love Geococcyx californianus, roadrunners, so much?  Probably part of it is because we don't have these birds in the midwest, but there's something more...something I can't quite put my finger on.  Perhaps it's all those years watching Wiley chase him with those incredible Amce tools and weapons.  Or maybe it's because they are so much fun to watch.  They are super fast runners and yet they can fly, which they do when you least expect it!  They are very comfortable around humans and I've seen them at the pools at Desert Springs, on a car at Del Taco, and many times outside our villa here.  Regardless of why, I so love these birds, why oh why can't they love me!?!?
Our moon

iPhones are essential
for grilling!
Roadrunner or not, we had to eat and tonight we cooked our steaks on the grill outside. The sky was bright with decorations, so we had much to look at as we shivered in the night wind.  In the east was a full moon and to the west was Venus and Jupiter. Finally, the steaks are done and back inside we go to enjoy our meal and watch a movie.  Another great evening in the desert!

Wednesday, March 7, 2012

Day 17 - Contrasts

Out at first light, walking the resort for over an hour and determined to find a road runner for a photo shoot.  We ALWAYS see road runners here in the mornings, but thus far, none.  Maybe Wednesday will be the day.  (Or is it Thursday….keep getting the days mixed up.)

Mona, Monte & Aleta at JCs
We decided to start our day at JC’s Patio Café on El Paseo in Palm Desert.  Not only is JC’s a tradition for us, this little café seems to be a tradition for many other tourists, locals and celebrities.  The walls are lined with photos and autographs from big name stars and politicians.  We’ve never seen any of them, we just come for the breakfasts…My (Marvin) favorite is the Machaca Scramble, eggs scrambled with beef with a picante sauce on top, served with fresh sliced tomatoes and wheat toast.  Yum!

Piece of Art on El Paseo
Titled Ascension - Can you tell why?
As I said, JC’s is on El Paseo, The Rodeo Drive of the Desert.  The valley is a premier destination for many L.A. bigwigs, stars, producers, writers, you name it.  Of course, they wouldn’t dream of roughing it in the desert without their Coach, Versace, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, etc.  Many of these places have valet parking for their clientele; wouldn’t want to scratch one’s Maserati or Rolls while parking it next to our ’99 Intrigue! 

The street is about a mile long and is lined on both sides with high end shops, restaurants and art galleries.  Elderly highly-tanned and tight-skinned ladies drive bright yellow shuttle bugs to help you accelerate your shopping experience.  The street itself is gorgeous with palms on both sides and a well-manicured center median with works of art on every block. 

El Paseo Storefront
Over the years, we have spent many an hour walking this street end to end gathering packages from here, from there, from seemingly every shop on the street…until finally they can shop no more.  We don’t mind…seems like every other shop pushes a glass of wine, or maybe a cookie, into your hand as you walk in.  Not to mention the beauty of the street and all the Art that is about you.

More Street Art
There are about 50 pieces
along El Paseo
But, this year is different.  No shopping.  None.  Nada.  Zip.  Monte and I are dumbfounded.  (Not really sure what that word means….does that mean we were found to be dumb?  Don't answer.)  Anyway, off of El Paseo we go and on to Joshua Tree.

To get to Joshua Tree National Park you go twenty five miles east of Palm Desert and turn north.  First sign you see says, “47 miles to next services.”  We check our gas and head northward on a two lane blacktop road with very soft sandy shoulders.  El Paseo this is not!

This small park, about 550,000 acres spans two desert ecosystems, the Colorado Desert (which is an extension of the Sonoran Desert) and the Mojave Desert.  Each desert has its own flora and fauna and it’s very interesting to move from one to the other in a matter of hours.

Brittlebrush
Chuparosa in bloom
We enter the park while in the Colorado desert, the low desert.  The is the desert that we’ve been living in for the past two weeks.  Lots of creosote bushes, ocotillo cactus, and many types of yucca and agave.  We’re in luck as many of the plants are in bloom, something we haven’t seen before.  This is truly beautiful and exciting and we try to get good pictures of each species.  Note: we do this while treading carefully; there are six species of rattlesnakes in this park, including two types of sidewinders.  We’d love to see one, but at camera 3x distance…instead of short stick distance like last time!

Blooming Ocotillo
Ocotillo Bloom
Along this drive we come to a wash that is seemingly filled with blooming ocotillos.  These 30 foot beauties have long spinney stems topped off with red plumes.  What can top this?  That question was soon answered as we drove into the Cholla Cactus Garden.  This area is filled with Teddy Bear/Jumping Cholla.  They call them Teddy Bear Cholla because their golden spines appear fuzzy and huggable.  They call them Jumping Cholla because those same “huggable” spines seem to leap onto your skin and clothing and are quite painful because they are barbed.

Blooming Teddy Bear Cholla
See the blooms?
LOTS of Cholla!
We wander through the garden being very very careful not to brush up against these beauties.  We learn that this area happens to be the perfect ecosystem for these plants and they have taken over these many acres for hundreds if not thousands of years.  Many animals, other than humans, find these cacti to be very hospitable and make their homes here, most notably the Cactus Wren.  Unfortunately, none of these animals was willing to have their picture taken.

40' Joshua Tree - About 800 years old
Onward and upward we go…we’re climbing into the San Bernadine Mountains and as we approach the 4000 foot elevation we see very noticeable changes in the plants.  Very few cholla now, no ocotillo….and soon we see the emergence of the Joshua Tree plants…namesake of the park.

Another Joshua Tree
Budding Joshua Tree
How to describe a Joshua Tree…hmmm, let’s start with tall.  These giants of the Mojave Desert rival their Sonoran cousins, the saguaro, for height…reaching heights of 40 feet or more.  Considering that these plants grow at a ½ inch a year that means that these giants are about 800 years old.  Okay…we’ve got tall as a descriptor…should we next say graceful?  There are indeed some graceful and majestic Joshua Trees to be seen.  But wait, look at that one…I think it came from my last nightmare!   I guess the best way to describe these plants is to say that they are large agaves, growing to over 40 feet, with dagger-like spines and usually topped with bunches of green daggers.  There are thousands upon thousands of these giants throughout the Mojave and they make this desert like no other in the world.

Rocks, have I mentioned rocks?  This park has rock piles which look like building block toys of giants.  Some of the rocks are a few feet high, and some are hundreds of feet and people come from all over the world to climb them.  No climbers today in these 25 mph winds!  These amazing piles of rock were formed by volcanic granite, pushed up from the magma close to the earth’s surface.  Wind and rain wore away the surrounding earth and exposed these multicolored rocks for us to see. 
House Rock
After a few hours it’s time to leave Joshua Tree.  We exit the park on the north side of the San Bernardino Mountains at 29 Palms.  As we descend we begin to be buffeted by high winds.  The weather forecast was for dangerously high winds and the forecast was spot on.  Sustained winds at 37 mph with gusts up to 55 mph.  We now have to drive all the way around the western end of the San Bernardinos, cross the San Andreas fault and re-enter the Coachella Valley from the west through the San Gorgonio Pass.  Normally, this is a nice little 40 mile drive, but the high winds make it a challenge, which luckily, Monte is up to.

Sand is blowing and drifting like snow in a midwester blizzard.  People are running to get from their cars to their doors.  We catch a glimpse of Pooh Bear, tumbling along like the tumbling tumbleweed.  We come into Palm Desert with a 50 mph tailwind.  Great gas mileage, but not a good day for the cookout we had planned.  We head to Morton’s for dinner…stopping a bit for geocaching along the way.  Busy day and we hadn’t geocached until now.  Gotta keep that streak going!

We sat at the bar at Morton’s and shared appetizers and wind stories.  Great way to end the day!

A couple more pics.  These tiny desert clovers are only about three inches tall and I couldn't get a picture to do them justice without laying down...and umm, well, you know, that wasn't going to happen!

I love Cholla, but as Bette Midler sings,
"From a distance!"
Big Rocks, Rock!


Tuesday, March 6, 2012

Day 16 - 29 Years!


We started our day with a long walk through the resort, with a slight detour to pick up a geocache.  The grounds of the resort are beautiful, with water features and incredible landscaping at every turn.  We love walking here...it's so relaxing and there is so much flora and fauna to admire.  The entrance to the resort is lined with palm trees interspersed with waterfalls.  It's a perfect place to sit and relax, but of course we're on a brisk morning walk, so no relaxing for us!

We head to the Market Place to buy stamps.  While in line, someone spys a chocolate cupcake, just calling her name.  Now, the "brisk morning walk" slows down a bit a we share a cupcake and a mocha latte while enjoying a mountain view.  Now, we must walk even more briskly to work off our cupcake!
The flora around here also has its share of cactus, aloe, and other succulents.  These plants, along with the palms, mesquite and bouganviella make it virtually certain there's always something in bloom.  (Not to mention all the seasonal flowers planted by the resort.)  These blooms make this a haven for hummingbirds and we see them every day.  Sometimes they put on a show for us, doing loops and flips as they zoom to and fro.  Every now and then they surprise us by zipping right up to our face!

The fountain outside the lobby is shaped like the little pincushion cacti that surround it. We must have 30 pictures of this fountain as we take multiple pictures of it each time we visit.  Guess we're still trying to get that perfect shot!
Covert of Coots!

One of the animals that we often see here are coots.  These are small black duck-like birds that tend to stay together in large groups called coverts.  They aren't as much fun as ducks as they don't come up to you begging for bread.  But they are fun to chase around, trying to break up the covert! 

The resort offers all kinds of recreational activities: golf, tennis, walking trails, painting lessons, trivia nights, etc.  We don't golf or play tennis, so we pretty much concentrate on the other activities, such as a sprited chess game outside the rec center.
Sotol

We love to sit out on the balcony in the late afternoons/early evenings.  It's about 82 degrees today and we have a great view of the San Bernadino Mountains on our left and the Santa Rosa Mountains on our right.  In the distance we can see three hot air balloons drifting eastward.  We took a balloon ride here a few years back.  They picked us up before dawn and we were out in a field blowing up the balloon before daylight.  At daybreak we were off...drifting eastward towards the Salton Sea. It's so peaceful up there, and a great way to see the checkerboard of the valley.  When we landed we had a champagne brunch.  Loved it!

No balloon rides for us today. But, we're enjoying "our show" nonetheless.  We have a covert of coots hamming it up for us.  There must be a couple of hundred coots out on the fairway in front of us.  Three golfers get out and do their thing and the coots ignore them.  The fourth golfer to come up does the same thing as the others and the coots flee in mass, quacking madly and flying into the nearby lagoon.  Crazy as coots!

We have golfers for entertainment as well.  They're typically lots of fun to watch this late in the day.  In front of our villa we have a sandtrap, the fairway and a lagoon.  Most of the balls are landing in the lagoon and sandtrap.  We love their late-afternoon golf cart driving.  Helping their carts go faster by pushing with a leg dangling out of the cart; slipping into the sand traps; playing bumper carts...geeze, hope none of these folks are driving home!  We can see the green and the flag from here, too.  Almost no one is putting the ball into the cup; instead, they get within ten feet or so and then head for the next hole!
Zipper on Guard
Our last "entertainer" for the afternoon is Zipper, our resident hummingbird.  He's a Black-chinned hummingbird, about 3 inches long.  He loves to perch on a little twig just off our balcony.  He zips away for awhile and then returns to rest and preen.  He's been here all afternoon.  Another hummingbird came close to the balcony and Zipper zoomed up to ward him off.  We feel safe from errant hummingbirds with Zipper protecting us!

It's Monte and Aleta's 29th wedding anniversay and we're headed out to dinner.  As we step out our front door we are treated to a beautiful sunset above the San Jacinto and San Gorgonio Mountains.  It is breath-taking and we all stop to enjoy the view.  There are a lot of beautiful man-made sights in the valley, but none can compare with the sights that nature provides.

M&A have chosen the Jackalope, in Indio, for their anniversay dinner.  This amazing restaurant covers seven acres and cost almost $40 million to build making it the second largest free-standing restaurant in the U.S., as well as the second most costly to build in the U.S.  This masterpiece was the vision of Don Callendar, founder and owner of Marie Callendar's restaurants.  Sadly, he died the day before it opened.

We turn the corner into the restaurant and immediately see a jackalope.  He's standing proud in his glory, surrounded by flaming torches.  We aren't sure if he's happy to see us or not, so we just move along quietly.

One of The Jackalope's Many Gardens

Entering Jackalope you first step into the inside dining area...hundreds of full tables and quite noisy.  However, we quickly move through this area and to the outside patio.  Here there are fewer tables and it's much quieter.  There's a bit of a chill in the night, so the propane heaters are on, adding warmth and more color to the luxurious gardens and waterfall views that we have from our tables.This place is a perfect place for an anniversay dinner!  M&A have chosen wisely.

We all love our meals, three had their signature ribs and one had the Dover Sole.  All were too much and no desserts tonight!  We also tried their signature tamales and declared them "almost as good" as Mi Jalapenos.  Damn good!

We are at the Jackalope exit and starting to turn west back to our resort and we see these lighted palms.  There are many places throughout the valley that do this lighting and they always appear magical.  These are no exception and they provide a fitting close to a magical evening.